Nowadays it is difficult to imagine that at one time the world did not have the people and the cities in which they live now, as well as roads and arable lands.But the fact is that all the geological periods attended the ocean, and just like today, the waves rolled between him and the beaches.Indeed, the most ancient landscape on the planet is a kind of wave of water surface that covers it by two thirds.How many poets inspired by the waves!But whether their description reflects the real essence of this phenomenon?
We looked at the image: waves of the sea seem to us to them moving on the water column.But it turns out that's not true.If you look to the chips or any other objects that are in the water (for example, to the boat) we notice that the dashing waves of the sea do not push him, but only lifted, then lowered.Similarly, the up and down waves when wind gusts yellowing cornfield in the fields.Her ears and stalks do not change their position and did not roll from one area to another.They only fall slightly forward and then back again to its original position.But we do not see, because seeing running across the field one after another "wave", and all ears are on the same site.
This phenomenon is reflected in the oral folk art.Remember the proverb, comparing gossip and sea waves.How quickly spread the news around town.But none runs from one end to another, declaring them.Just the news waves transmitted from mouth to mouth, and cover the whole territory.
But back to our subject.What is the reason creates these beautiful, fast and powerful waves of the sea, photos of which can shake our imagination, and even one of its kind to catch up with the fear?She is known even to children: "Wind, wind, thou - mighty!".Its gusts hit the water and "flex" its surface.As a result, part of her bend down and some go up.This excitement is transferred to another point and captures large areas.And here we are already seeing the horizontal effect that is transmitted at great speed.It quickly spread and the waves caused by an earthquake.However, they are observed not only in water but also on the surface.
illusion of our perception of influence on the height of the waves on the sea or ocean.Legends of the wave height of the whole mountain turned out to be unsubstantiated after scientists have measured them in reality.The point here is that during the storm observers are on the deck of the ship, which, together with a body of water that falls sharply down, then soars up to the crest of the wave.With this pitching even low wave seem huge ramparts.This happens because being on the deck of the passenger watches them not vertical, and diagonal equal to the length of the slope.In the open sea is always stronger than the power of the wind.But salt water has a high density and does not allow him to create huge waves.For mariners, this phenomenon is often associated with the disaster.But for the living beings that inhabit the depths of the water, the waves (big and small) are good.They saturate their habitat oxygen.
