All that I feel!All I can hear in your hair! ...
Charles Baudelaire
epigraph: «... If the most beautiful woman to remove from the head hair ... then let it be the very Venus ... even Vulcan his like will not be able".
Apuleius' The Golden Ass "14th century
To my great surprise, almost horror, not only modern hairdressing training centers and colleges, based on the database state.institutions such as technical, it is no longer to teach a course entitled "Materials".And what is the result?Modern masters, in principle, able to paint, but I did not know how to choose the right products for the future care of the hair or making it on a whim, which is nothing but the standard errors under a does not have that much to say about you, I love customers and a lady passed bysalon.
Well, zaymёmsya debunking myths and "theories" that a huge number of live, thrive and multiply at the hairdresser and the client environment.Myths are different: helpful, almost like a fairy tale.These we might call more "commercial moves," we - professionals, just a little dissemble or rather - non-Contracting;and harmful, that would look charmingly naive, if not bring obvious harm to the hair of the client and the master consciousness.
We gradually, step by step, get to know what is it like to shampoos and conditioners.With their basic principles of operation, we will learn the differences between products for the daily care of the "treatment" means.And most importantly - do not learn how to read an advertising blurb product (which by the way is not written for you, and for my and your mom), and composition.Read consciously realizing the function of each ingredient that will give you the opportunity to not make mistakes in their own choices and their own boards.After as the house begins with the foundation, and a beautiful hairstyle starts with daily proper care of hair.
types of hair - what is "normal"?
frankly.In this article, I do not really want to delve into this subject, for one reason only - it is not so very grateful.And the reason is simple - to date no medical, no Trichology (professionals concerned with hair and scalp) not established such a thing as "normal".And none of the points that describe the hair.For example, the amount of hair ranges from 30,000 to 150,000 (a difference of five times!), One centimeter of the scalp falls from 200 to 1500 hair (someone everything someone did).Well, please tell me - where is the concept of a normal average hair?It simply does not, and quite frankly, can not be, because we are so very different, people living on the planet Earth.
exactly the same situation and with the rules of hair care and scalp.Let's open the book "Beauty Secrets" 1987 edition.This book was a dream and the best gift for any woman or girl living in the Soviet Union because it was written by highly qualified specialists of the Moscow Institute of beauty, located on the street.Herzen.It reveals all the secrets of a completely self-care, and most importantly - ways of making your own cosmetics!Quote: "prone to fat content, considered the hair to be washed once every 7-10 days ...".So what do you think?Can you imagine what would happen if modern man does not offer a week wash your hair ... Well if you do not beat you ... funny?And me too - modern dermatologists tend to believe that man has become a hostage of its own purity.Yes, yes - we too often we wash!The truth is it would not be a sin if in this case we have used only water, but no - we use a huge amount of funds that according to the statistics we select, focusing only on three main factors: the scale and sonority of the advertising company (something like "callShampoo №1 ... »), the appearance of the package and" lucidly beautiful "label on it (" flowing silk hair ... "), and of the latter - the smell.And where is the type of skin or hair as a last resort?Truth it must be said that in fact our customers are rarely remember this.And besides, in addition to historical prejudices, there is also an extremely biased attitude towards themselves and their appearance.But let's deal in everything in order.
If you do not get in a deep problem, that can be divided types hair two main block : 1. by type scalp : dry, oily and normal;2. as hair : normal, dry and damaged, painted, I would be singled out curly.Sometimes, manufacturers release more as an independent type of hair emaciated or thin hair, but to me it does not seem quite right.Although ...
Normal skin moderately oily, not dry, not shelled, it does not have large pores and blackheads (comedones).Normal hair well reflect light, shimmering in the sun.If these qualities are preserved for several days after shampooing, then apply to your hair is normal type.This type of hair is also different elasticity and plasticity;they hardly easy to comb and cut by whether they are dry or wet.
Oily skin is covered with a thick layer of sebum and has a particular shine.For a skin characterized by enlarged pores. Fat hair depends on the activity of the sebaceous glands, which in turn is a purely individual and laid genetically.In particular, a small degree, the amount of sebum produced depends on the type of food that is consumed from dietary carbohydrates (primarily) and fats.Greasy hair is a characteristic dull luster, after a short time after washing stick together and start to look dirty, unkempt.As greasy hair often combined with oily dandruff.
Dry skin often flakes, weather-beaten, and the result looks irritated or tense.Dry hair not reflect light, so that they look dull.They are easily torn, confused, difficult to comb, whipped at the ends.Often it is accompanied by fine dry dandruff.Most often dry hair - the result of improper care, much less a consequence of the reduced activity of the sebaceous glands.
pH pH value
dealt with the types of hair, let us begin to understand the means to care for so many different hair and scalp.And I propose to begin with the most depth, that is, with a certain pH , about which so much is said, but so few people actually know what it is, and most importantly - how to use it.
The hairdresser practice, we more or less constantly dealing with the mixture dissolved in water.This coloring, and styling tools and almost all the money's Skin, and of course we want to understand the extent of their impact on hair and skin.
Water is a very weak electrolyte and is slightly dissociates into ions H + and OH-, which are in equilibrium with undissociated molecules:
H2O = H + OH.The ratio of these ions is constant, and this means that when the concentration of ions of the water is accordingly reduced concentration of the other .. It is thus possible to determine the acidity or alkalinity of any solution.
With pH reaction, the solution is characterized as follows: pH = 7 neutral, acidic - less than 7 is alkaline - more 7.
Figure 1. The pH
acidic neutral alkaline pH
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 910 11 12 13 14
strongly acidic reaction solution is weakly acid slightly alkaline strong basic
In order to represent the power and the impact of any selected product on the scalp is necessary to know the hydrogen indices of hair and skin.That is, we can assume that pH is the comparative characteristic of preparations of different purpose with respect to any object, in this case, the hair and scalp.First of all, remember that the pH of the hair shaft (which is 14% water) = 3-3.5, and the pH of the skin normal = 5-5.5 (today, thanks to advertising, it is well known, even small children).
now realizing that the pH values of hair and skin are quite different from each other, we can reasonably assert that there is no universal means of the "two in one".In addition, we now understand that as shampoos often have to approximate pH 5-5.5, the main beneficial effects of turns on the skin.At the same time, hair care is very nice, but all the side effect of which is basically banal cleansing of hair from mechanical impurities.Balms and masks often have a pH of from 2 to 4, which corresponds to the pH of the hair, but not skin, thus than sour agent, the stronger it affects the structure of the hair.That is, to put balms and masks especially, should be strictly on the hair without any contact with the scalp.Otherwise, you will be guaranteed inflamed oily skin and scalp hanging hair without volume.
pH skin pathology as different from normal skin pH, it is 6-7.From this it is clear that the shampoo for normal skin absolutely not fit skin problems and need special tools.
make the first conclusions : Shampoo selected primarily according to type of scalp balms is selected according to the type of hair and applied without any contact with the skin of the scalp.
Finally, talking about pH do a little test.Consider applying a hair dye and prove the need for properly wash your hair after dyeing special means.Hair dyes are strongly alkaline, depending on the ability of the dye to the dye Clarity pH ranges from 8.5 to 11, which means that after any chemical hair treatment must be returned to the normal pH of 3-3.5.One washing hair with water in this case is not enough, because it will lower the pH only to 7, then requires the use of specially designed shampoo with a pH = 5.0-5.5, which is true only remove paint residues from the hair and restore a normal environment on the surface of the scalp.But we must not forget about the hair, and thus is required to apply shampoo and strongly acidic conditioners or masks with pH 2-4.
Figure 2. Comparative indicators of pH in the dyeing of hair
acidic environment alkaline pH
Hair Skin water
3.5 5.5 7 8.5 9 10 11
balms Shampoos tonir coloring coloring chem super blond
May 3 5.5 6.5
Proper washing and everything must be done without fanaticism ...
Strictly speaking, today is no longer simply washing hygiene measures, becoming both cosmetic and medical procedures.However, if you have healthy hair and flawless skin type head - you are lucky, then you can not afford to simply wash away the dirt from the hair.But my sister says proctologist: "No healthy people, there are people surveyed do not ..." meaning modern detergents should combine beauty and therapeutic functions in parallel and creating a decorative effect (color restoration and creation of gloss).But more about that in the next article, where I am more concerned about the issue - how often to wash it down?
Modern trichology believes that "as often as you need it."But we should not confuse the concept of "necessity" and "habit."On the one hand, it is not necessary to store a week's dirt, just because your grandmother village believes that "the microbes die dirt" - modern medicine has proved that microbes may be dying, but coccal infections and yeast quite the opposite.But on the other hand, we are often faced with the fact that our client wash her head every morning with only one purpose - "to lay a better haircut."In my opinion, this is a sample of what confused the concept of "necessity" and "habit."Yes, of course, sometimes the "need" is determined by the terms and conditions of work - active sports, abundant dust in the workplace, the need to use a strong styling etc .. In addition, 8-10 years ago, there was a kind of "golden rule": you can not go to sleepdo not wash styling.I do not know for you, but for me, this statement is doubtful.Well, first of all, good modern styling schёsyvaetsya quite easily, and secondly, professional styling not infrequently serves as a protective shell on the hair, saving our hair from the aggression of the environment.And besides, when it comes to styling the type of beauty, so it is not washed off, even shampoo deep cleaning, why wash?
Of course, when it comes to oily scalp, then a part of, and even everyday cleaning is necessary.But this should be done correctly using special shampoos and even a special way of drawing.Also do not forget about the "two rules for the lazy" - you can not wash not mine, and can not be dried is not sushi.After washing this massage, and massage is additional stimulation salo- and sweating, that is, in fact, the opposite effect is obtained.
living water and dead
Importantly, any water you use for washing hair: usually normal tap water is tough enough as it contains a lot of salt, so it is necessary to soften it.All tips to alleviate the water are fairly standard: first of all it is a long boiling (at least 40-50 minutes) or a complete freeze.With further thawing, but it is certainly a long and complex history.You can also use additives: baking soda (1 teaspoon per 1 liter of water), ammonia (1 teaspoon per 2 liters of water), glycerin (1 teaspoon per 1 liter of water).But that's not all - it is not recommended to wash your hair too hot or too cold, it is believed that the oily hair, the cooler should be water.The optimal water temperature for washing hair is 35-45 ° C.But if you ask me personally, I would say that you need to wash your hair with a comfortable water - hot or cold is not so important ... I think that our body knows best what's best.According to my observations gipotoniki (which I am) often prefer hot and very hot water (apparently in order to raise the blood pressure), high blood pressure at the same time hot water is often not simply pleasant and even contraindicated.What am I?And the fact that blood pressure is largely regulates salo- and sweating, so - your skin type.
washing techniques
Lather shampoo hair once is not enough, you must do it at least twice.The first washing is the removal of mechanical impurities from hair and sebum.It was only the second is the introduction's Skin components stated in shampoo manufacturers.Shampoo should be thoroughly, thoroughly wash off, on the surface of the hair did not remain elements of alkaline detergent (these words will be meaningful after reading the following article).Do not forget that it would be great to combine the wash with a massage of the scalp, in all cases except the acute stage of hair loss and oily, inflamed scalp, seborrhea especially burdened.
first poured shampoo into the palm mute pounded (before even used the term "warming up") and then applied to the hair.Shampoos for special purposes (for oily skin, dandruff or hair loss) allocated strictly on the skin and kept for the time specified in the instruction (usually from 3 to 7 minutes).Along with it, the shampoo is applied to the length corresponding to the type of hair (colored, damaged, curly etc).Washed off with shampoo.If the multi-purpose shampoo (for frequent washing, for normal hair for volume etc), they are applied directly on the skin and hair
way, double washing is also recommended for balm , especially when ittalking about long or thick hair.First time balm is applied through the hair and washed out carefully enough, and the second time balm is applied to the third length (which is closer to the ends) while only lightly rinsed (so that there was a sensation not eroded balm).This is because the long hair, or rather the ends of the lacking supply.Also, this procedure is required if your hair is strongly pushing.Static electricity is produced only where there is no water (moisture), so your hair does not get the necessary or sufficient care.If, after this procedure, your hair instead of gloss got bold raid, easily change the balm - it is not exactly suited to you (most likely, you have decided that instead of normal hair you are damaged).
Personally, I'm a bit hard to combing wet hair .
