Despite the fact that the Russian perfume business was born in the century and a half later than in Western Europe, after only four decades, the famous French were forced to make room on the perfume Olympus.
Although development of the Russian perfumery was associated with immigrants from European countries, had a wealth of experience and tradition, perfume production, transferred to Russia, has become a very special national character and identity.
whole perfume industry pre-revolutionary Russia was concentrated in the hands of ten manufacturers, unsuccessfully competing with western manufacturers of perfumes, of which the market was more than thirty.A range of perfumes in the early 19th century, our manufacturers surpassed even the famous French: in the price list known Paris firm E. Pino listed 80 names of the spirits, and ten years before the rally Association has issued more than 160 types of spirits.
ancestor of the perfume industry in Russia can be considered as Alphonse rally.In 1843 he founded a perfume factory, which soon became the largest manufacturer of perfumes in our country.Factory A rally was not only the oldest in Russia, but also to collect numerous awards and emblems received for the quality of its products.Plus, the honorary title of "Supplier of the Imperial Court."On the eve of the Bolshevik Revolution of 1917 by "A.Rally & Co "guided Directorate headed by Eduard Bo.The range of its products was comparable with an assortment of the best western perfumery companies.So, in 1910 "A.Rally & Co. "produced 675 titles perfumes.
Ernest E. Bo, son of Managing Director of the factory "A.Rally & Co. "was born in Moscow in 1881 and was succeeded by his father's work, becoming a perfumer, a laboratory, and then candidate for director.After the Revolution of 1917, the family of Bo goes abroad.Three years later, Ernest Beaux created the famous perfume "Chanel N 5".France gained brilliant perfumer.A factory "A.Rally & Co. "in 1918 was nationalized and renamed in soap and perfume factory N 7, and later - in the factory" Freedom. "
By the early 20th century, the rally had to step aside to make way for a better and glory perfumer other major Russian industrialist - Henry Brocard.
Golden Age of Russian perfumery is inextricably linked with this talented man.Henry Brocard was hereditary perfumer.Even in his youth he studied in America perfume business is so successful that he received a medal for the quality of its products.In 1861 Brocard sent to Russia, fell in love with Charlotte Rave, will forever remain in Moscow.During his service as chief perfumer of the factory Constantine Ghica he invented a new method of making a concentrated perfume.Having sold his invention to the French company, used the money to Henry opened his own company.Since its inception, Henry Brocard has shown himself not only a talented perfumer, but also resourceful trader.His firm has gained unprecedented popularity, not only for the excellent quality of products, but largely thanks to clever advertising moves.
Brocard started its activities with the soap.But despite the high quality products, rich preferred to use foreign goods, and the poor - do not use soap.And then Charlotte Brocard up with advertising and marketing ploy: it proposes to create a cheap soap for children in the form of rabbits, dogs and cats, and for older children - with the letters of the alphabet!For adults as Charlotte came up with a multi-colored soap in the form of vegetables.(By the way, the first Brocard started using eco-friendly vegetable dyes).This could well serve as a soap, for example, the goodies for men selling at the fair ... Agree, even in our days of plenty unusual perfume soap - a great souvenir, both for the child and adult.As soon as such a treasure from Brocard just one penny.
«With this penny and you get your million!" - Said Charlotte, and she was right.A cheap soap was to enjoy unprecedented popularity.And for him and coconut - five cents.In addition, the circular soap Brokar invented "Ball", which together with the "People" received in 1865 a silver medal at the Exhibition of Russian production in Moscow.In 1869, the company has become a powerful Brocard factory: boilers, machinery.Launches "rosy" lipstick and powder "swan's down."
In 1872, on Nikolskaya Street magnificently opens first brand shop Brocard.In 1873, Charlotte Brocard passes Grand Duchess Maria Alexandrovna (daughter of Alexander II) bouquet of wax flowers that smell like the real thing!A week later Brocard became court supplier of the Grand Duchess.
Meanwhile, production has continued to grow: opens another shop in China town on the Bourse.To come up with the surprise discovery of a novelty: soap, lipstick, perfumes, colognes, sachets, cream - only ten items in one box.And most importantly - a fantastic price of one ruble.The heated public advertising almost demolished the newly opened shop.Before the arrival of the police had been sold two thousand sets!"This is a success," - happy wife."This is the glory of ..." - said a satisfied husband.This glory Brocard struck home after Henry Afanasievich invented cologne "Flower".For its advertising on the All-Russia industrial and art exhibition in 1882 we built a fountain, from which water instead of hitting a new cologne.
Newspapers of the time wrote about the fountain, like the miracle of the Tale of Tsar Saltan.He attracted everyone's attention, people took off their outer garments, to dip it in the fragrant water.The matter again came to the Mounted Police, but the guards of the order was not up to the people - they strove to try something new.Advertising made his - "Flower" was the first mass cologne in Russia.In 1883, at the National Exhibition in Moscow cologne won a gold medal.
Soon Brocard has created a gorgeous perfume with the scent of lilacs - "The Persian lilac".This work has truly appreciated the French: the spirits have received not only popular, but also the highest award - a gold medal in section elegant and hygienic perfumery at the World Exhibition in Paris.
After the death of Henry Brocard "Brocard Partnership and Co" with a turnover of two and a half million rubles was transferred to the widow Charlotte Andreyevna.And in 1913, associate Brocard August perfumer Michel created for the 300th anniversary of the Romanov dynasty spirits' favorite bouquet Empress. "Spirits was destined to have a long life, and they have come down to us under the name "Red Moscow".
Awards received by the partnership "Brocard & Co.»:
1865 Silver Medal at the Exhibition of Russian production in Moscow.The first award received in just the first year of the Partnership, and noted manufactures soap "Ball", "People".There were also the reasonable price with high quality products.
1870
Diploma and Silver Medal at the National Exhibition manufactory, St. Petersburg.Reward soap "great dignity, at very reasonable prices" has once again proved the popularity and availability of products the Brocard general population.
1874
Implemented a long-standing dream of Henri Brocard - The factory was awarded the title of the Supplier Grand Duchess Maria Alexandrovna, Duchess of Edinburgh.
1882
Gold medal at the All-Russian Industrial and Art Exhibition, Moscow.For "Flower cologne" (fountain).
1883 Silver Medal at the Trade and Industrial Exhibition, Riga.For high quality products.
1883 Gold Medal at the World Exhibition, Nice.For high quality products.
1884
large silver medal at the National Exhibition, Odessa.For high quality products.
1884
highest award at the World Exhibition in Boston.For high quality products.
1888 Gold Medal at the World Exhibition, Barcelona.For high quality products.
1888 Gold Medal at the World Exhibition, Brussels.For high quality products.
1889 Gold Medal at the International Exhibition, Paris.For spirits "Persian lilac".
1890 Gold Medal at the International Exhibition, Madrid.For high quality products.
1890
highest award (certificate and medal) at the National Show, Kazan.For high quality products.
1890
Gold Medal and a star at the International exhibition in Brussels.For high quality products.
1891
silver medal at the Central Asian exhibition in Moscow.For high quality products.
1893
highest award at the World Exhibition, in Chicago.For high quality products.
1896
Small State Emblem of Art at the National Industrial Exhibition, Nizhny Novgorod.For consistently high product quality, popularity and accessibility of different segments of society Brocard was granted the Small State Emblem - the recognition of the official state level.
1900
Grand Prix at the World Exhibition, Paris.For high quality products.After receiving this award all perfume houses in Paris, and the whole of Europe recognized as a great perfumer Brocard.This award was the culmination of his career and the recognition in the global perfume industry.
1913
Partnership "Brocard and Co" awarded the title of purveyor to the court of His Imperial Majesty.It's - evidence of a higher recognition.
Images medals and coats of arms were placed on most perfume bottles produced by a partnership Brocard.
by its unique personality was the manufacturer - confectioner Adolf Sioux.In addition to the main activities of the confectionery, he produced "the highest perfume."
In the early 20th century factory Siu produced more than 120 varieties of perfume and cologne 30-40 names.After the revolution, the trading house Siu was nationalized and turned into a factory "Bolshevik".
Russian perfumery and beautician Alexander Ostroumov went into business as a private pharmacist and those referred to himself, and at the peak of his career.Cream "Metamorphosis".The early twentieth century (right) and Soviet period
In 1885 Ostroumov invented the soap from dandruff, which made it more or less well-off man and allowed to open their own perfume factory.The next invention - the cream "Metamorphosis" - Ostroumova elevate to the rank of world celebrities.Production of cream called lasted for more than thirty years.
With Ostroumova started cosmetology Russia.In 1919 he organized in Tverskaya special laboratory, which soon developed into a unique at the time, and the world's only Institute of medical cosmetics.This institution is not spared many artistic celebrities, among them Antonin Nezhdanoff Elena Stepanova, Tamara Karsavina, Marie Petipa, Vera Tillage, Hope Plevitskaya ...
favored by the artistic elite of Russia, has received numerous awards for the quality of its products, wit no accepted Soviet power andHe left Russia.
his mark in the history of the Russian manufacturers of perfumes left: Konstantin Hermance, Nikolai Matgeysen Emil Bodley, Ferdinand Myulgens, Partnership perfume factory "C.Chepelevetsky sons. "
merchants since 1824, received the right to constantly deliver their products to the court, received a diploma and the title of "Supplier of the Court of His Imperial Majesty" could decorate their trade boards, and put on their products the imperial coat of arms.
All goods ordered by the royal family for personal use for ceremonies and diplomatic receptions, receiving the title.However, to earn the title of the supplier of the imperial court was not easy.To become a supplier of the imperial family, the manufacturer was required for at least eight years to produce a quality product only.The slightest marriage work - and we can start again and prove eight years, working on the conscience and deserves a high rank - the supplier of the Imperial Court.But it was worth the title papers.After receiving the title of the Supplier, and with it the right to represent on "etiquette" - so the label was called before the revolution - the national emblem of Russia - the two-headed eagle with scepter and orb, industrialist gets serious benefits.He could get a title of nobility, the highest award of Russia.The family has given to and rent and patronage in the placement of children in prestigious schools.But, most importantly, the company supplier of the court of His Imperial Majesty was acquiring solid tax incentives, received the prestigious and lucrative government contracts.The government strongly contributed to the promotion of such a product, both in the domestic and foreign markets, is absolutely correct belief that a quality product - the prestige and pride of the great Russia.And the supplier was required to maintain and improve the quality and expand the range of products: noblesse oblige!Some companies are the suppliers of the Grand Dukes, and placed on bottles of their personal coat of arms.On most famous brands of perfume dishes are images of medals - awards received at various exhibitions and also a sign of quality and prestige.Since the establishment in 1829 and the success of the first exhibitions of Russian manufactured goods has become possible to create an objective mechanism of selection of the best products are awarded gold, silver, bronze medals and honorary diplomas.
Among Russian perfumery companies suppliers of the Imperial Court is a partnership Brocard, rally Ostroumova, Sioux Buiza.
After the revolution the factory and partnership releases perfumes were nationalized, many of them will soon cease to exist - since the beginning of the civil war was no longer a need for perfume.Gone are the names of the once famous perfume companies, and most of them was to produce soap for the Red Army.
«New Dawn" Brocard after the October Revolution of 1917 was nationalized and renamed the State soap factory № 5. Fortunately, as a faceless name did not stick.In 1922, the decree of the Council of People's Commissars and the Supreme Economic Council of the premises of the factory was transferred to the factory "Gosznak."On the advice of Mikhail Kalinin workers rebuilt the ruins of the former wallpaper factory Sladkova, and November 1, 1922 opened a "State perfume and soap factory" New Dawn ".And in 1925, his work in August Michel 'favorite bouquet Empress "called" Red Moscow ".In 1941, one of the shops were evacuated to Yekaterinburg from which subsequently formed the factory "Ural Gems".In the postwar years, begins a new stage in the development of "New Dawn".There is a growing volume of production, expanding the product range.At this time, the factory produces more than 200 types of goods, accounting for 64% of all the perfumes of the USSR.The legendary "Red Moscow", "Scythian Gold", "black casket", "Blue casket", "Stone Flower" and many others have been honored and loved unconditionally.
Materials Skvortsova.The symbolism in the Russian perfume bottles
Articles Source: geraldika.org
