genius, an amazing man Paul Poiret rightfully earned the title of Emperor of Parisian fashion.He's not quite his humble confession (which is forgivable great talent) "dressed era," the most beautiful and famous women of the time.Among his clients - all European, including Russian nobility, and creative individuals.His contemporaries were Coco Chanel, Jacques Doucet, Charles Worth, NP Lamanova and so on. D.
Paul Poiret, biography: the early years
future great designer was born in Paris in the family of a merchant of textiles.About how his childhood was difficult to say, because no reliable data.In his biographical book by Poiret increasingly focuses on dresses, sketches and hats, which at that time already occupied his mind and imagination.From a young age he kroil and sewed their own for their sisters.Even then, the boy's talent made his way outside and demanded recognition.
Paul Poiret grew up with three sisters, one (Nicole Grult) subsequently worked to create dresses and even had its own fashion house in Paris.The second also gained fame, however, is already an outstanding shlyapnitsy.Despite the apparent fascination son fashion and everything connected with it, my father did not want to take it seriously, so insisted that the boy learned not in school.After graduation, he made it to work messenger from the famous masters for the production of umbrellas.But soon Paul Poiret (see photo. Below) left the studio.Taking cuts of silk, he began to sew clothes for her first doll, once donated sisters.
Getting creative way
his career as a future great master began to work at the famous French fashion designer, collector and patron Jacques Doucet, then it was the studio of Charles Worth, where he was mainly involved in the design and sewing of clothing (coats, capes).And already in 1903, Paul Poiret established his own fashion house.The success was truly stunning and lightning, primarily due to the already gained popularity among Relations and notable clients, the aristocracy.
He actively promoted the return to fashion of ancient times, and coined the dress as a tunic and peplos, and proposed a new Parisian as it is now would say the trend - the kimono.
Paul Poiret - fashion emotional character, a bright and enjoys nature.Without muse he simply could not exist.She became Denise Boulet, whom he married in 1909.As acknowledged by the master, she is the embodiment of all the ideals.A charming woman from the provinces surprised townspeople and bright, unique and exquisite costumes, created especially for her, she revealed her beauty.Each of the publication was transformed into an event, a sensation.Couple discussing media and society.Of course, present in their lives striving to shocking the public, reaching sometimes to the point of scandal.It was during this time period, Paul Poiret (see dress. Photo) acquires fame of eminent fashion designers of the world, it is compared with the artist, the creator, and the news pouring like a horn of plenty.
The couple became famous and as organizers of grandiose fancy dress party, which is held annually.Each holiday has its own theme, but especially the famous evening "1002 th Night", held in 1911.
Unfortunately, not all the beautiful stories have appropriate continuation and completion.The couple divorced in 1928, when the financial well-being Poiret began to decline.What is the true reason for wing separation after so many years, to say nobody can.However, in a newspaper interview Denise accused him of cruelty and Poiret, in turn, called her behavior offensive.
Ethnic motives in the works
In 1910, after attending the ballet "Scheherazade" in Paris, Paul Poiret was so impressed that I could not pass up the charm and mystery of the East.For the first time in its collections, a model with ethnic motifs, and a year later he even organized a costume theme party "Thousand second night."Couturier himself appeared in the form of a powerful sultan.After such a grand event Oriental motifs in clothing for a long time possessed socialites.Harem pants and culottes, turbans - it all turned out in exotic dress for an evening out.
Russian style in the works of fashion designers
first time since the Russian talent Poiret encountered when visiting the ballet, who applauded the whole of Europe.Attracted by the originality and flair, he decided to go on a tour of Eastern Europe, including Moscow and St. Petersburg.The famous couturiers come to a complete delight from the Russian folk costume (lush sundresses, kichek, kosovorotok, kokoshniks, scarves and shawls).He even brought a certain amount of clothes with you to the capital of fashion.Lush, beautiful flowers and ornamental - all Paul Poiret (dresses shown in the photo) used to create the world's first collection of clothes with Russian motives.It was called "Kazan".
's coat by Paul Poiret
In its primordial form under this element of traditional Russian costume meant peasant coat with straight sleeves and back, neotreznoy in the waist.Paul Poiret's coat - a stylized, cross-linked for the first time for my wife Denise suit.For him, it uses dark luxurious fabric, emphasizing the originality and flavor of Russian style.
immortal creations of designer
modern woman's wardrobe is simply inconceivable without the elegant and sexy pencil skirt.Meanwhile, the story of its creation goes back to the beginning of the twentieth century.It was then created a prototype - a "lame yubkayubka" year.Paul Poiret called it that way due to the fact that the narrow hem obstruct the movement, and the women had to mince moving small steps."Lame skirt" was the basis not only the silhouette of "pencil", but also the year, the famous and popular silhouette of "mermaid" for evening and wedding dresses.
Books P. Poiret
against fate and the difficult life circumstances in the 1930s designer lets out his three books: "Fashion and Finance", "Dressing the era" and "Come back!".All of them, in fact, represent a memoir.Colossal work, to read that - is a pleasure, a whole series of famous names, highlights against the backdrop of the dramatic history of the twentieth century .. Paul Poiret was a remarkable and multifaceted personality, he was invited as a lecturer at the Sorbonne, and theaters sometimes gave orders to create costumes.
Oblivion great designer
From 20-ies capricious fashion trends have started to undergo changes, and this affected the world political turmoil, war.In the history of all natural, and some names are replaced by others.So it was with Paul Poiret.Most often mentioned among its competitors is no less great Coco Chanel.The designer simply could not adapt to a rapidly changing world so, as a result was expelled from the fashion Olympus.After 1925 he was on the verge of poverty and was forced to sell his studio, a collection of paintings and other art objects.He died in poverty and oblivion in 1944.Only after fifteen years the public once again remembered the name - Paul Poiret.Sketches and keep copies of the author's clothes were exposed to his ex-wife.Time made one more round, and, after a terrible war, people want that forgotten, vibrant, untamed beauty.
in 2005 from the private collection of his wife and children Poiret has sold more than six hundred different items of clothing.Some of the items was accompanied by photographs from personal family archives.Miraculously surviving things (not always in good condition) went to the famous museums in the world of fashion.
Paul Poiret - King of Fashion of the twentieth century, who gave women freedom in the literal and figurative senses.He made a revolution in the ladies' locker room, first proposed to abandon corsets, long braids, and try on the pants.Bright Star talented master, unfortunately, shone briefly, but his name is forever inscribed in the history.